Robert Parker - 96
The 2008 Cabernet Franc Duemani is extraordinary. Silky tannins support a core of beautifully delineated dark fruit, grilled herbs, flowers and espresso in this breathtakingly elegant, polished wine. Expressive, articulated aromatics are woven throughout, adding lift and a sense of freshness. The wine shuts down quickly in the glass and appears headed for a period of dormancy, but it is impossible to miss its genius. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028.
This is a stunning set of wines from Luca D'Attoma and Elena Celli. D'Attoma and Celli have really dialed in these wines over the last few years, but the 2008s are truly special. Peronospera was an issue in 2008 and took with it about 40% of the Merlot crop. The summer was dry and very hot, with 4-5 days of hot sirocco winds which caused the vineyards to go into hydric stress in July and August. D'Attoma and his vineyard crew dropped additional crop to give the vines a chance to recover. Whatever they did, it worked, as the flagships Duemani and Suisassi are both superb. As always the Duemani is fermented in oak vats, while the Suisassi is fermented in open-top French oak barrels. Both wines are aged in French oak, and the malos occur naturally.
Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243